April in London
A Spring Walk Through The City Churches
[Up to 4 hours excluding any refreshment stops
There is nothing more tranquil during Spring in London, than a stroll through the City churches and their beautiful churchyards. Little oases of peace in a bustling metropolis, despite the fact that many of these churches have seen destruction both in the Great Fire of London in 1666 and during the bombing of the Second World War. Whilst nowadays their neighbours are huge powerful skyscrapers, these churches once formed the backbone of city society, providing religious succour as well as medical care, hospitality and governance. This walk focuses on a small walking area, starting in the shadow of the majestic St. Paul’s Cathedral built by Sir Christopher Wren in the 17th century. The walk snakes its way through some of the prettiest churches and has a particular focus on the church gardens.
As you cross Cheapside with St Paul’s behind you, head down Foster Lane for our first stop. As well as the great cathedral, Wren was responsible for building over fifty churches in the City of London after it was all but destroyed in the Great Fire. An unusual dedication to a 6th century French saint, the rough outside ragstone wall of this church gives a real insight into what the medieval city of London might have looked like. Substantially re-built by Wren it features one of his more beautiful spires – look up to see the swaggering display of curves with pilasters, scrolls and obelisks. To the left of the church is the enclosed garden courtyard with gorgeous magnolia trees and which displays a section of Roman pavement – a reminder of the origins of this city!
St. Vedast Alias Foster
The Churchyard of St. John Zachary & London Wall
As you walk down towards Gresham Street you come across one of the prettier garden spaces. There is nothing that remains of the church of St. John Zachary which was burnt down in the 1666 Great Fire of London and never rebuilt, except for its churchyard. The land is owned by The Goldsmiths Company who reside in the livery hall opposite and tend the sunken garden where once the church building stood. This is now a public space to enjoy some peace and quiet. From here pass along Noble Street to see the actual remains of the original London Wall which enclosed the Roman city of Londinium. Now beautifully planted with wildflowers and dotted with beehives, it is a nature sanctuary in the heart of the city. Continue along, turning right past the garden churchyard of St. Mary Staining to emerge onto Wood Street.
St. Alban’s Wood Street & St. Lawrence Jewry
Probably the coolest address in London, this extraordinary building was once the bell tower of the church of St. Alban’s that stood on this site. Whilst it was badly damaged in WWII, the remains were finally destroyed when Wood Street itself was widened in the 1980s and the tower is now marooned in the middle of the road. It was converted into a private residence in 1985 and must be a considerable challenge to live it with its multiple levels! Excavations have shown that this site was in use in Roman times with a chapel here since the 8th century, perhaps even belonging to the palace of the Saxon King Offa which was nearby. All that remains of the churchyard is on the other side of the tower. Finish off your walk at the church of St. Lawrence Jewry. This is perhaps the grandest of the churches we visit on this walk, and certainly the largest. It is as beautiful from the outside as it is inside, with swags, niches and festoons along with deeply carved Corinthian columns on the outer East side. It sits opposite the ancient Guildhall – the centre of London administration right from the City’s origins. This church was almost completely flattened in WWII but it was thanks to the architect Christopher Brown who restored it to Wren’s original plan. Both architects are remembered in the beautiful stained-glass windows inside the West porch. Make sure you pop in and have a look.
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