February in London
Exploring Lincoln’s Inn Fields
[Up to 4 hours excluding any refreshment stops
Nestled behind the busy boulevards of Holborn and Kingsway, is the hidden gem of Lincoln’s Inn Fields – a space which boasts the title of London’s largest square. Originally used as a jousting field in medieval times, it wasn’t properly developed until the 1630s by a speculative builder named William Newton. Today it is the heart of ‘legal London’ and it is most famous for being the location of two stunning building complexes; Lincoln’s Inn & the house of the great 18th century architect, Sir John Soane. In this walk, the steps that we take are few and yet we travel for miles through the architectural works of Soane which draw upon ancient ruins, as well as meeting some of the most famous London legal characters from John Donne to Tony Blair!
Lincoln’s Inn Fields
As you enter into this beautiful and leafy green garden square surrounded by elegant London townhouses, you would have no idea of the violent history of the area. Now the preserve of barrister’s chambers, these open fields were the execution site of the fourteen Babington Plotters – those who had planned to murder Queen Elizabeth I and install Mary Queen of Scots on the throne of England. As well as this, these fields were also the location of the week-long Gordon Riots of 1780, the most violent protests in London’s history. These anti-Catholic political riots had protestors taking to the streets and eventually breaking into the nearby Newgate Prison. Thankfully the area is much quieter today with many of the houses given over to law firms, due to the proximity to Lincoln’s Inn – our first stop. As you pass through the centre of the square, make sure you pause for a coffee in the delightful Pear Tree Café.
On the eastern edge of the square sits Lincoln’s Inn - one of the four surviving Inns of Court. Originally dating from as early at 1422, the Inns of Court are today an association of professional barristers, however their origins go back much further. In the 13th century King Edward I took the control of the King’s Courts away from the clergy and handed them over to the lawyers. These Inns provided legal training for pupils as well as food and lodgings. At one point there were over twenty in London, but today only four still exist, and this is one of them. As you step through the Tudor entrance gate it is as if you have travelled back in time and entered a small London village. Surrounding the beautiful, manicured gardens are barrister’s chambers. In the heart of the complex is the Chapel and its ornate under-croft. Dating to the 1630s and open to the public daily, inside you will find the coats of arms of past treasurers of the Inn which are displayed as heraldic stained glass – look out for those belonging to William Pitt the Younger, Prime Minister in the 1780s. The most famous clergy man to preach in the Chapel was the metaphysical poet John Donne. It was Donne who wrote ‘send not to know for whom the bell tolls…it tolls for thee’ about the mourners bell of the Chapel in his famous work ‘For Whom the Bell Tolls.’ It is perhaps the Great Dining Hall which is the most magnificent of the buildings in this complex. Dating from the 19th century and built in the neo-gothic style, it sits alongside the Old Dining Hall dating to the 15th century…both are places where lawyers come together to dine and discuss cases and both are equally magnificent!
Lincoln’s Inn
The Sir John Soane’s Museum
The residence of the renowned Regency architect Sir John Soane [Bank of England, Dulwich Picture Gallery and much more] is a veritable treasure trove. Spanning across three houses it comprises thousands of objects, drawings, paintings and furniture. Left almost exactly as it was when Soane bequeathed it to the nation in 1837 you literally step back in time as you enter the museum. Often used as a showcase for prospective clients, Soane’s innovative use of light and mirrors is as spectacular today as it was when he was London’s most eminent architect in the 1790s. Although Soane started from quite humble beginnings as the son of a bricklayer, it was his travels through Europe which started his fascination for the antique. His collections are madly eclectic and are on display exactly as he would have lived amongst them. Enjoy everything from a full scale model of the ancient Roman Apollo Belvedere, to the Egyptian alabaster tomb of King Seti I. It is perhaps the picture room that is most spectacular. The room has moveable walls which keep opening to reveal more and more hidden spaces. They are hung with Soane’s own architectural drawings, paintings by JMW Turner and most important of all, the series entitled The Rake’s Progress by the wonderfully satirical artist William Hogarth. Make sure you ask one of the room guides to show you the house’s secrets!
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