October in London
St. James’s & Soho
[Up to 4 hours excluding lunch]
It is often said that London is a series of small villages…and this is never more apparent than when strolling through the village of Soho. With its eclectic history, from silk weavers to sex workers, Soho is buzzing with creativity and glorious gossip! This month’s itinerary, walks you through the tightly knotted back streets of Soho, past some of its most famous landmarks. Starting in the smarter neighbourhood of St. James’s, the walk finishes on the edges of Chinatown. So much to explore and discover, this walk is a real treat for the all the senses.
St. James’s
Starting in the neighbourhood of St. James’s, originally developed after The Great Fire of London of 1666, most of the area was owned by Henry Jermyn, Duke of St. Albans. Given its proximity to St. James’s Palace, it became synonymous with style and savoir faire. Many of the establishments today still reflect this historic association – look out for the royal warrants on many of the shops, including Floris, perfumiers to the Crown, on Jermyn Street. It has a small museum in the back, with interesting items such a letter written by Florence Nightingale from the battle field of the Crimean War requesting her favourite white rose perfume to be shipped out. As you pass from Jermyn Street through the church yard of St. James’s Piccadilly [the only church designed by Sir Christopher Wren outside of the City of London] opposite you is the Burlington Arcade. This covered walkway is lined with fabulous shops selling everything from expensive macaroons to diamond tiaras!
Having left the sophisticated streets of St. James’s, as you turn right out of the Burlington Arcade, you cross Regent Street into Glasshouse Street – and on your right is The Café Royale. Established in the 19th century by a bankrupt French aristocrat, it is credited for introducing French food to England…it also boasted the finest wine cellar in all of London at one point and counted Oscar Wilde, George Bernard Shaw and Rudyard Kipling amongst is regular clientele. Check out their fabulous afternoon tea offering in the Golden Salon. As you progress down Denman Street you come to the edges of Soho with the Piccadilly Theatre in front of you. Pass down Brewer Street and cut through Farrier’s Passage – a reminder of the many horse-related industries that were in this area [Soho gets its name from a hunting cry]. Turn onto Great Windmill Street and you’ll see Soho’s most famous night spot – The Windmill Theatre. Known for its salacious nude tableaux vivants it continued as a celebrated variety performance theatre until the late 1960s.
The Beginnings of Soho - Glasshouse to Windmill
The Heart of Soho - Brewer to Broadwick
By the time you reach Brewer Street you’re under no illusion as to the nature of the industry that is so prevalent in Soho. The sex industry has been in this part of London since its establishment in the 17th century. Now strictly regulated it is more of a tourist attraction than anything else. One of the most historic markets in London – Berwick Street Market - still exists here as it has since the 1770s. Originally the haunt of French Hugenots it now sells food from all over the world. From here, stop for a pint at The John Snow Pub. Named after the great 19th century physician who identified the source of the horrific cholera outbreak of 1854. Thankfully nothing sinister remains in the waters today, and there is even a replica of the pump which was the originator of the contamination.
Finish up in front of the Spirit of Soho mural on Broadwick Street. This colourful walled art piece sums up in technicolour all of Soho’s lively history. Of the many figures present, and whom at one point or other were associated with Soho, see if you can spot Mozart, Ronnie Scott, the Italian playboy Casanova or Karl Marx! You can finish your walk off with a delicious lunch in the neighbouring China Town or a spot of shopping at the famous department store Liberty’s. Enjoy!
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